Croatia remains one of Europe’s favourite destinations. History, culture, nature, beaches and sunshine – in short it is every holiday wish packed into one! Experience the region’s unique flair and what makes it so special – just as the Croats do themselves.
See and been seen: no Zabrebian would want to miss their evening korzo on the Trg Bana Jelacica. There is a lot of flirting and cliques of teenagers giggling outside ice cream parlours. Young parents can be seen pushing prams and elderly men and women strolling along at their own pace. Everybody greets each other and catches up on the latest gossip. Just join the promenade and have a look for yourself – it’s great fun (on summer evenings from 7pm onwards, in winter much earlier with many fewer people).
THAT BAROQUE FEELING
Varazdin is Croatia’s most beautiful Baroque town. When Croatian and international musicians perform works from this era in the Baroque halls and squares, some dressed in period costume, from mid September until mid October, you will find yourself transported back to the elegant 18th century with its lacy crinolines, smart uniforms and dainty dances (Varazdinske barokne veceri, mid Sept–mid Oct, www.vbv.hr).
As a contrast to all the sights of Ancient Pula, take a look in the elegant Art Deco market hall (Narodni trg, Mon–Sat daily until noon) where the locals really go to town bartering for a bargain. Here, a little unadulterated piece of everyday Croatia can be seen every morning. No Istrian would even conceive shopping in a supermarket when farmers bring their fresh fruit and vegetables to market every day. Not to forget the range of fish on offer either.
Sandy beaches or ones with very small pebbles are rare on the Croatian coast. But the locals don’t miss this at all. They love their bathing spots on the cliffs due to the crystal-clear water – and that can’t be matched by any sandy beach. One particularly clean and picturesque beach with large pebbles is in the bay below the little village of Beli on Cres island. Don’t forget your flip-flops!
ON THE BALL
What do the predominantly male inhabitants of Split do on a late summer’s afternoon? They head for Bacvice beach to the east of the town centre to play picigin. This variation of water polo, invented in Split, is played by up to five people in knee-deep water, doesn’t seem to have any obvious rules and attracts an avid and critical audience. Why not join in?
GOING WITH THE WIND
No windsurfer should miss these hotspots: in the straits between Orebic on Peljesac and the little town of Korcula the powerful maestral wind blows surfers along in a force six gale at 1pm on the dot. The only snag is that you have to watch out for ferries and other people on the water in this narrow passage! And don’t get carried away in your quest for speed either or else you will end up many nautical miles distant at the second surfing hotspot on the Dalmatian coast, the waters off Bol on Brac.
SLADOLED – GELATO – ICE CREAM
A day without at least one tempting ice cream with a couple or more brightly-coloured scoops when on holiday on the Adriatic is virtually unthinkable! Simply the choice on offer and the juggling skills of the ice cream vendors are a delight themselves. The only question is: where is the best ice cream? The Ice Box in Porec is a popular place but the champion could well be the Dolce Vita in Dubrovnik too.
WINE, MEN AND SONG
Croatian male-voice choirs call themselves klapa. And when they launch into their melancholic ‘a cappella’ songs, they will carry you away to a far off land of distant horizons and romantic sunsets with sailing ships heading out to sea and women waving to their departing lovers … This traditional, heart-melting and contemplative music, often performed in simple pubs (konobe), is moving indeed and calls for a glass or two of wine afterwards as a form of emotional comfort – zivjeli!
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