Bavarian cooking isn’t just Leberkäs (meat loaf) and Weißwurst (white sausage), Schweinsbraten (roast pork) and Knödel (dumplings), as delicious as these may be. It is much more varied, sophisticated – and even more individual – than most people think.
Aufgschmalzene Brotsuppe – originally considered a poor man’s meal, now to be found on up-market regional menus. Pieces of bread soaked in stock are fried and served with the soup.
Ausgezogene – a deep-fried sweet ‘pastry’ varying in circumference from 4½ to 8 inches. Traditionally made at harvest thanksgiving and for major church holidays. Nowadays, the ‘Kirchweih nudel’ is made by every baker.
Böfflamott – like many things in Bavaria, this comes from the French (originally boeuf à la mode). Ox meat is braised with two calves’ hooves for four hours.
Knödel – few Bavarian dishes do without the good old dumpling. Whether Brezen, Semmel, Kartoffel, Leber or Zwetschgenknödel (pretzel, bread(roll), potato,
liver or prune dumplings), the homemade ones are the best, served for example with chanterelles in a cream sauce.
Leberkäs – meatloaf in a bread roll is one of the survival tactics of those in a hurry. It doesn’t contain either liver or cheese (as the name would suggest) but a secret concoction of beef, pork and lots more, too.
Obatzda – ‘batz’ means a clod or lump of earth. Obatzda however is mature Camembert mixed into a thick paste with butter, onions, spices and a drop of beer.
Saures Lüngerl – a lung ragout cooked in a sour stock and served with a cream sauce and bread dumplings.
Schlachtschüssel – boiled meat, black pudding and liver sausage, pork belly and sauerkraut: once a firm favourite that was only served the day the animals were slaughtered. Nowadays it has rather sunk into oblivion.
Schweinsbraten – roast pork seasoned with salt, pepper and ground caraway seeds and with
diamond-shaped crackling. Roasted with quartered onions and basted with a dark wheat beer. Usually served with dumplings. Beware of restaurants offering ‘Schweinebraten’ – the true Bavarian dish is spelled ‘Schweinsbraten’.
Restaurants serving traditional Bavarian cuisine:
SPATENHAUS AN DER OPER
Traditional but sophisticated Bavarian cooking. From both rooms on the first floor and from the terrace there is an excellent view to be had of the Opera House and Max-Joseph-Platz. Daily | Residenzstr. 12 | tel. 089 2 90 70 60 | www.kuffler.de | tram 19 Nationaltheater, U/S-Bahn Marienplatz | Moderate
Munich’s trendy eatery is popular with both old and young, the ‘in’ crowd and families. On Sundays you get a free lesson in Bavarian culture as the traditional morning pint is always accompanied by music. If you’re not very hungry, try the lard and onion spread on bread or meatloaf with home-made potato salad. The theatre of the same name and studio cinema are both part of the set-up. Daily | Fraunhoferstr. 9 | tel. 089 26 64 60 | www.fraunhoferwirtshaus.de | U1/2 Fraunhoferstraße | Budget
For lovers of true Bavarian cooking. This is where those working in the wholesale market normally eat – and that’s why it’s open already at 7am and closes at 5pm (Sat at 2pm). This is where you’ll find the very best Weißwurst there is. And the roast pork isn’t too bad either. Closed Sun | Kochelseestraße 13 | tel. 089 76 45 31 | www.gaststätte-grossmarkthalle.de | U3/6
Impler straße, bus 131 Gotzinger Platz | Budget
A good old Bavarian hostelry with blunt, grumpy but surprisingly efficient waitresses who serve the most divine bread dumplings on earth. Despite all things traditional, they also keep up with the times here and have a Bräuhaus app for iPhones. Daily | Tal 7 | tel. 089 2 90 13 80 | www.weisses-brauhaus.de | U/S-Bahn Marienplatz | Budget
Buy the Munich Marco Polo Guide.