Traditional Portuguese cuisine is simple, rustic and hearty. Portions are usually generous. A hefty plate of fish or meat is complemented with rice and potatoes (often at the same time), plus a few lettuce leaves as standard garnish.
Local specialities you should try on your visit to Lisbon:
Açorda de marisco – bread stew with seafood
Amêijoas à bulhão pato – mussels in a garlic-lemon sauce
Arroz de pato – rice with duck
Bacalhau à brás – codfish potato gratin
Bife à Marrare – fillet of beef in a garlic and cream sauce
Bitoque – steak with fried egg and chips/fries
Bolo-Rei – ‘King’s Cake’, Christmas and Easter cake made with dried fruit
Cabrito – kid goat, prepared with fresh herbs
Caldeirada à fragateira – fish stew with tomatoes and potato
Caldo verde – soup made from green cabbage and potato
Chanfana – goat in wine sauce
Cozido à portuguesa – hearty stew of various cuts of meat and vegetables
Favas à moda de Lisboa – fava beans with bacon and sausage
Feijoada à portuguesa – bean stew with sausage
Frango na púcara – chicken, prepared in a clay pot
Iscas com elas – liver with spleen
Lulas recheadas – stuffed squid
Pão-de-ló – biscuit cake
Pastéis de bacalhau – fried codfish pasties
Pastéis de Belém – custard tarts
Peixinhos da horta – fried green beans in tempura
Porco à alentejana – pork goulash with mussels
Queijadas de Sintra – sweet curd pastries from Sintra
Rissóis de camarão – fried prawn rissoles
Salada de polvo – octopus salad
Restaurants serving traditional Portuguese cuisine:
O Miudinho
Get off the beaten track at the Miudinho in Carnide, a charming old-fashioned neighbourhood in the north of Lisbon. Don’t let first impressions – a modern development – put you off. The simple restaurant serves traditional Portuguese fare, specialising in meat and fish from the charcoal grill. Large helpings, low prices! Closed Sun | Rua Neves Costa, 21 | tel. 2 17 14 01 20 | www.omiudinho.com/pt | Metro (blue) Carnide | Budget
Sol e Pesca
This former angling equipment and tinned fish shop in the port quarter – now a hip nightlife mile – has been converted into an informal bar-restaurant. Choose your tin of fish, pay an additional €2.50 for bread and salad, and you’re good to go. Tue–Sat noon–midnight, Fri/Sat sometimes up to 4am | Rua Nova do Carvalho 44 | Metro (green) Cais do Sodré | Budget
Cervejaria da Trindade
This is the classic place to enjoy a beer in Lisbon. The large rooms form part of a former monastery church. In summer, you can sit in the small, shady garden. Whether meat or fish, a whole meal or only a couple of tapas (appetisers), there is something to eat most times of the day or night. Daily 10am–1.30am, Closed on public holidays | Rua Nova da Trindade, 20c | tel. 2 13 42 35 06 | www.cervejariatrindade.pt | Metro (blue, green) Baixa-Chiado | Moderate
Faz Figura
This is one of Lisbon’s classic restaurants, with a beautiful view across the Tagus. Its light-filled conservatory and terrace make it a favourite meeting place for wealthy Lisbon families. It offers fine Portuguese and international cuisine, including vegetarian dishes. Very friendly service. Daily | tel. 2 18 86 89 81 | Alfama | Rua do Paraíso, 15B | www.fazfigura.com | bus 12 to Rua do Paraíso | Expensive
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Loved all the food in Lisbon, but the real treat for seafood is down the road in Sesimbra!